Each Culinary Artist Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.

Paul Morales
Paul Morales

Eva is a local artist and passionate storyteller, sharing her love for Nijmegen's vibrant art scene through insightful posts.